← All guidesOff-grid vs hybrid vs grid-tied inverter: which one to choose
Updated October 2026
All three inverters turn the direct current from your panels into the alternating current your appliances use. What differs is how they deal with the grid and with batteries, and that decides what happens during a power cut. See each type on the inverters page.
Side by side
| Grid-tied | Hybrid | Off-grid |
|---|
| Needs a battery | No | Optional but usual | Yes |
| Works during a blackout | No, it shuts down by design | Yes, with a battery | Yes, it never depends on the grid |
| Connects to the grid | Yes | Yes | No |
| Relative cost | Lowest | Middle | Depends on the battery bank and loads |
| Stores extra daytime power | No, it exports it | Yes | Yes |
How to decide
- Stable grid and you are paid or credited for exports: grid-tied. It is the simplest and cheapest.
- Frequent outages, or expensive evening power: hybrid with a battery. It gives backup and lets you use daytime solar after dark.
- No grid, or the grid is too far to connect: off-grid with a battery bank and often a backup generator.
- A farm pump or a cabin used a few weeks a year: off-grid, sized to the real loads.
Mistakes to avoid
- Buying a grid-tied inverter and expecting backup power in a blackout. It will not provide it without a battery system.
- Sizing an off-grid inverter for average load only. Add 2 to 3 times the running watts for motor start-up.
- Skipping local rules. Some utilities restrict export size or require approved equipment.
Next step: learn how to size the inverter, then compare the three types and use the system calculator for your array.
Estimates for planning only. Have a qualified installer check local codes, wiring and safety before you buy or build.
